Your AC Went Down in 100-Degree Heat. Now What?
I'm Omar Jacobo, owner of Frosty's HVAC (EPA 608 #2396328). I've taken hundreds of emergency calls from homeowners across Farmers Branch, Coppell, Irving, Flower Mound, Lewisville, and Grapevine whose AC died in the middle of a Texas summer. When it's 100-110°F outside and climbing fast inside, people panic. I get it. But what you do in the 1-2 hours before your technician arrives makes a real difference — both for your comfort and for preventing further damage to your system.
Step 1: Turn Off the HVAC System at the Thermostat
This is counterintuitive — your house is hot and your instinct is to keep trying. But if your AC has stopped cooling, continuing to run it can cause serious secondary damage. If the compressor is failing, running it burns out the motor windings. If there's a refrigerant leak, running the compressor without proper refrigerant charge destroys it. A failed capacitor can overheat the compressor if it keeps trying to start.
Turn the system completely off at the thermostat. Set it to "Off" — not "Fan Only." If the fan works but the compressor doesn't, running the fan just circulates hot air and wastes electricity.
Step 2: Check Your Circuit Breaker
Before you call anyone, check two breakers in your electrical panel:
- The indoor unit breaker (furnace/air handler — usually labeled "HVAC" or "furnace")
- The outdoor unit breaker (condenser — usually labeled "AC" or "compressor")
If either has tripped, flip it fully off, wait 30 seconds, then flip it back on. Wait 5 minutes (the compressor needs time to equalize pressure), then set your thermostat to "Cool" and set it 3 degrees below room temperature. If the system starts cooling, great — but keep an eye on it. A breaker that tripped once might trip again, which means there's an underlying electrical issue.
If the breaker trips again immediately, leave it off and call us. Repeated tripping indicates a short circuit, ground fault, or failing compressor — all of which need professional diagnosis.
Step 3: Check Your Air Filter
I know I talk about filters a lot, but there's a reason. A completely clogged filter can cause the evaporator coil to freeze solid, which blocks all airflow and makes the system blow warm air. Pull the filter out. If it's packed with dust and debris, replace it (or just remove it temporarily — running without a filter for a few hours won't hurt anything). If the coil was frozen, give it 2-3 hours to thaw with the system off before trying to restart.
Step 4: Protect Your Family from the Heat
Texas heat kills. This isn't dramatic — it's a medical fact. Heat-related illness can start at indoor temperatures above 90°F, especially for children, elderly family members, and pets. Here's how to stay safe while waiting for repair:
- Close all blinds and curtains, especially on south- and west-facing windows. Direct sunlight through glass can raise a room's temperature 10-15°F.
- Move everyone to one room — ideally on the ground floor (heat rises). Close doors to rooms you're not using to contain whatever cool air remains.
- Use fans — ceiling fans, box fans, whatever you have. Fans don't cool the air, but the wind-chill effect makes it feel 4-6 degrees cooler on your skin.
- Drink cold water continuously. Don't wait until you're thirsty — by then you're already dehydrated.
- Wet towels on the back of your neck are surprisingly effective for cooling your body core temperature.
- Know the signs of heat exhaustion: heavy sweating, cold/clammy skin, nausea, dizziness, fast weak pulse. If you or a family member experiences these, get to a cool place immediately (a neighbor's house, your car with the AC running, a public building).
What NOT to Do
In the panic of a summer AC breakdown, homeowners make mistakes that either make the situation worse or cost them more money. Avoid these:
Don't Open Windows
When it's 105°F outside with 65% humidity (a typical July afternoon in DFW), opening windows lets that hot, humid air flood into your house. Your indoor temperature will actually climb faster than if you kept the house sealed. Texas outdoor humidity also invites mold growth — and in DFW ducts, Aspergillus, Penicillium, and Cladosporium can start growing within 24-48 hours of exposure to moisture.
Don't Keep Restarting the System
If the AC won't start, trying over and over stresses the compressor and electrical components. Modern systems have a built-in lockout after 3 failed attempts for a reason — it's protecting the equipment. If it won't start after one reset attempt, leave it off and wait for your tech.
Don't Run Space Heaters (Obviously) or the Oven
Sounds obvious, but I've arrived at homes where someone was cooking a roast or running a dishwasher with the dry cycle on. Every appliance that generates heat makes your house hotter. Avoid cooking, running the dryer, or using the dishwasher until the AC is fixed. Eat cold food. Do laundry tomorrow.
Don't Try to "Recharge" the System Yourself
Those refrigerant recharge kits from hardware stores are a terrible idea. Your HVAC system is hermetic — sealed from the factory. If it's low on refrigerant, there's a leak, and adding more refrigerant without fixing the leak just delays the problem and can cause compressor damage from incorrect charge levels. Refrigerant leak repair plus recharge costs $350-$1,000 when done correctly: locate the leak, repair it, then recharge to manufacturer specifications.
Don't Hose Down the Outdoor Unit While It's Running
Rinsing the condenser coils is fine during routine maintenance when the system is off. But spraying water on electrical components while the system is powered can cause shorts and create a safety hazard.
When to Call for Emergency Repair
Call us immediately if:
- It's above 90°F outside and your system isn't cooling at all
- You have elderly family members, young children, or pets who can't tolerate heat
- You hear unusual sounds (grinding, banging, hissing) from the unit
- You smell burning from the vents or outdoor unit
- Your thermostat screen is blank or unresponsive
- The breaker keeps tripping when you try to restart
Emergency Repair Costs
Our standard diagnostic fee is $85, and it's waived if you approve the repair. For after-hours emergency calls (evenings, weekends, holidays), there is a $250 after-hours surcharge. Frosty Club members get that surcharge reduced to $212.50 (Basic tier, 10% savings) or waived against your $500 repair credit (Premium tier).
Common emergency repair costs:
- Capacitor replacement: $500
- Contactor replacement: $600
- Fan motor: $650-$2,800
- Compressor: $3,500-$5,000
All prices are flat-rate — we quote the job upfront, not by the hour. No surprises.
Prevent Emergencies Before They Happen
Most summer AC breakdowns are preventable with annual maintenance. Our Frosty Club Premium ($300/year) includes 2 tune-ups — one in spring to catch problems before summer, one in fall for your furnace. We check capacitors, contactors, refrigerant levels, electrical connections, and coils. The problems we catch in April don't become emergencies in July.
Read our HVAC maintenance checklist for everything you can do yourself to keep your system running strong.
Call Frosty's HVAC Right Now
If your AC is down and you need help, call (469) 254-0548. We serve Farmers Branch, Coppell, Irving, Flower Mound, Lewisville, and Grapevine. We've been keeping DFW homes cool since January 2018, and 94 homeowners have rated us 4.9 stars on Google. We'll get to you as fast as we can.
— Omar Jacobo, Owner, Frosty's HVAC | EPA 608 #2396328 | TACLA126718E